Review: Glaschu, Glasgow

When I saw the owners of Glaschu were opening a second restaurant in Glasgow – MAISON by Glaschu – I was eager to try it. But much like with films, it’s not always wise to see the sequel before you have sampled the original. With that in mind, I decided it best to first try out Glaschu – Gaelic for Glasgow and pronounced glas-a-hoo – in Royal Exchange Square. Opened in 2020, it’s a taste of modern-Scottish fine dining with a more relaxed atmosphere. Entering through The Western Club, you have to ring a buzzer to be let into the exclusive building, before heading up a sweeping staircase and into a glorious dining room. Muted beige tones, but for a pop of colour in the grand green pillars around the room, sums up the decor. It’s very stylish. We opt for the tasting menu which brings together the most popular dishes from Executive chef John Molloy’s A La Carte. The meal starts with beetroot tartare stuffed inside a bite size, perfectly crispy, sesame cone. It’s fresh and the pickling on the shallots brings a tang to the dish – a good start. Pan seared cod follows topped with pearls of arenkha caviar. A lip smackingly good Champagne beurre blanc accompanies the fish which is beautifully soft. It’s a luxurious dish, no major surprises, but delicious all the same. Next up was a confit duck pithvier, a real stand out of the six courses. The golden pastry on the pithvier was crispy and perfectly cooked, no soggy bottoms round here. It was stuffed with unctuous duck, which was rich and salty, balanced with the classic pairing of cherries. A real winner. Roasted celeriac with a wild mushroom and chestnut puree impressed even my meat loving dinner guest, and then it was on to the loin of venison. I expected it to be the star of the show, and while cooked extremely well, it lacked a touch of seasoning, as did the beetroot fondant which accompanied it. The desserts were ridiculously good. My favourite, the raspberry textures. A bowl of berry goodness with a sharp, zingy sorbet, and shards of raspberry which evaporated in your mouth like candy floss. It was incredibly light and refreshing, the perfect palate cleanser. We finished up with a deeply rich chocolate ganache. Served with a coffee and buckwheat crumble, it is a chocolate lover’s dream. A silky, salted caramel ice cream rounded off the dish while hazelnuts dotted around the plate brought a welcomed crunch of texture. All in all, this stylish bistro is a class act. Executive chef John Molloy has coaxed every bit of flavour out of his Scottish produce to create a tasting menu which is palatable and accessible to everyone. I am looking forward to a visit to his latest venture MAISON soon. The first act was a hit, so I am eagerly anticipating the follow up.